in response to a message on the NCRS # 8448
63-82 installing staples holding rubber parts

Saturday, January 20, 2001

Use the existing mounting holes if you have the original inner fender skirts. Have an assistant hold the mud flap in the appropriate position. From the wheel well side, push an ice pick through the uppermost center original staple hole in the fiberglass skirt. Continue right through the rubber to locate the new holes in the mud flap. After piercing the first 2 holes, push the first staple through from the engine side. Have an assistant hold the crown flush with the butt end of a screwdriver. From the wheel well side, grab one staple leg with needle nose pliers and curl it over. Do the same with the other leg. Work outward from the center staple, piecing and mounting one staple at a time.

If using new skirts, drill new holes using a 1/16” drill. Look at the AIM to see how many staples are required for each rubber part. Then look at some original skirts and notice how sloppily they were spaced and placed. Hold the mud flap on the inner skirt and drill hole for the first staple. Mount the center uppermost staple first and repeat as above.

The General Information section of every 58 to 82 AIM illustrates the approved method of stapling rubber parts to “metal”. These illustrate 3 different staple patterns: 37 ½ degree, 45 degree and flat. I have never seen the flat staple used. I have only seen the other curved wrap around styles – but never took out my protractor to measure the angle of the dangle. All 58-63 AIM’s list one part number (468066) for staples regardless of the items being staples. All 64-82 AIM’s list one part number (9985029) for staples regardless of the items being staples. Perhaps some eagle eye may explain the differences.

I have made my own staples from 18-gauge wire. Cut it 1 ½” long and bend it 90 degrees every ½”.